The day is young. I’m settled on a deck chair with two pasteis de nata – the country’s classic egg yolk rich pastry and a coffee. Utterly transported, I’m not too mesmerized to leave the water later to visit the villages, palaces and wineries nestled among the hills in this UNESCO World Heritage Site. The ship’s guest manager has assured me every day is mine to sculpt as I see fit. For a moment, I head to the railing for an up-close view of the first of the five locks we’ll transit as we head upstream. Silence prevails here as well. No clanging gates or whooshing water, our captain tucks us neatly within 12 feet of the glistening, wet walls. Then we rise light and airy as a souffle. Aboard the ship, we will trace over 500 miles and four more locks on this pristine waterway. As we slip from the lock, I can’t resist grabbing my camera. The hills will soon beckon.

 

 

By mid-afternoon, I walk down the gangplank intrigued by a baroque, baronial palace owned by a family named Mateus. No, this is not the place where a certain late 60’s rosé was produced. That wine was more noteworthy for its bottle than its beverage. That brand’s beautiful labels featured this impressive residence. Topped with Christmas-ornament style spires, the palatial interior delights with family treasures including a rare book library, Chinese porcelains, 17th and 18th century paintings and exotic wood furniture. Many of the rooms are crowned with intricate geometric wooden ceilings. While I get lost in all this beauty, others roam the tree-lined and sculpture accented gardens.

 

Onshore adventures continue at the Quinta da Roeda where Croft port wines begin. Guided through well-defined rows of growing grapes, I envision the many hands over the centuries plucking the ripe fruit and carrying bushels in wood lattice baskets, then the feet carefully stomping to free the juice. The vines must be happy today, the sun is hot. I’m revived when I find a refreshing Pink Port cocktail waiting on the patio. I sip and survey the vineyard’s winding terraces. 

 

 

Smooth as a mirror, the Douro reflects the passing landscape. Occasionally, we hail other vessels. Invited to join the captain in the wheelhouse, I hear him making certain we will navigate narrow lanes ahead. On another day, when he eases us through the Valeira Stretch, I’m reminded of his meticulous entry and exit at each lock. The river’s rapids are gone now, but with less than five feet of water below and rock cascades at port and starboard, his calm confidence is reassuring.

 

 

Swooping from the bridge, house martins greet us as we moor at Barca d’ Alva, Portugal’s last village on the Douro. I’ve slipped on my wide-brimmed hat, ready for a visit to the mountain top town, Castelo Rodrigo. Steep cobblestone lanes lead past tiny 16th century dwellings, some now converted to tiny holiday getaways. The equally-miniature Our Lady of Rocamadour church glows with gilded wood and indigenous art. Just down the hill, Sinagoga Street marks where Jews fled the Inquisition. Almonds flourish here, and once I stock up on gingered nuts, I pick up chestnut liqueur. 

 

 

Today, it’s a taste fest in Favaios, a plateau town where bread and wine go hand-in-hand. The 1,500 people who live here do likewise with their wine co-op uniting family farms and nine bakeries serving the region. 

 

Their modern museum introduces this signature fare. Moving on to sample their oft-praised muscatel-grape wines. Next, I join 6th generation baker as she kneads, folds and slides loaves of Four-Corner bread into her wood-fired ovens. My appetite is fired now. Lunch is at Qunita da Avessada, which fills me in every way. Our host blends history and flavor in the menu. From a black, cast-iron kettle, I’m spooned vegetable soup based on a 19th century recipe used to feed struggling families when the vines failed. 

 

Cooked overnight, the veal shank entree shreds easily and deliciously. Then I head to the pick-your-own dessert table for tempting multiple choices. With an accordion player close at hand, I taste the vineyard’s 10-year and 7-year reserve, then dance away with one of each. 

 

 

Tracing the way back to Porto, we dock at Régua tonight. A dozen young men step aboard carrying a huge double bass, guitars, mandolins, tambourines, and a drum. Clad in broad black hats and cloaks, they tune up in the lounge. These students share lively Portuguese songs sparked with leaping dance. What a fitting finale for our time on the Douro. These talented lads are from the university in nearby Lamego where tomorrow’s excursions include a pilgrimage church and a museum with exquisite Flemish tapestries. 

 

 

The sun will soon set in the west as the ship slides under Porto’s stellar bridges. It’s my last midstream glimpse of the Douro as it pours into the ocean. In half a day I disembark. While parting is indeed “sweet sorrow,” a wealth of memories is even sweeter. 

 

 

Porto captivates the senses with its blend of edgy opulence, historic charm, and delectable food and wine. Whether you’re strolling through the cobblestone streets or savoring world-class cuisine, these opulent hotels promise an unforgettable stay.

 

 

The InterContinental Porto Palácio das Cardosas, housed in a beautifully renovated 18th-century palace, provides a luxurious five-star experience in the heart of Porto. Overlooking the historic Liberdade Square, this hotel combines classic elegance with modern amenities, presenting stunning views of the emblematic Avenida dos Aliados.

 

Guests can retreat to elegantly designed rooms that capture the spirit of the city, featuring original decor, tranquil marble bathrooms, and breathtaking views of the historical city center. As well, a range of stylish suites blend historical ambiance with modern comforts. The hotel’s spacious accommodations offer a serene escape after a day of exploration.

 

Dining at the InterContinental Porto is an experience in itself. The Astoria Restaurant serves exquisite Mediterranean and Portuguese cuisine with a contemporary twist, using local, seasonal ingredients. Open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, the restaurant boasts a stylish atmosphere and magnificent views over Liberdade Square. Additionally, the Cardosas Bar Lounge presents expertly crafted cocktails and a superb selection of port wines, set against the backdrop of a traditional British library. Afternoon tea at the bar has a delightful selection of pastries and a splendid view of the city center.

 

For relaxation and rejuvenation, the hotel features a state-of-the-art Fitness Centre and a tranquil spa delivering luxurious facial and body treatments inspired by Portuguese cultural traditions.

 

Located in the Centro/Baixa area of Porto, right by Praça da Liberdade, the InterContinental Porto Palácio das Cardosas is ideally situated near Porto’s historic center and many popular attractions. Visitors can explore the banks of the Douro River, shop on Santa Catarina Street, and delve into the history of Palacio da Bolsa. With its prime location, elegant accommodations, and exceptional dining options, the InterContinental Porto provides an unforgettable retreat in one of Portugal’s most fascinating cities.

 

 

Nestled in the historic and vibrant Lapa neighborhood of Porto, the Renaissance Porto Lapa Hotel offers a sleek, sophisticated urban hideaway near iconic landmarks like Lapa Church, Casa da Música, and Clérigos Tower. Perched on Lapa’s hills, the hotel provides panoramic city skyline views, embodying the essence of Porto with its “Art House in The Park” design by Visioarq Arquitectos and Broadway Malyan. The interior features pastel pinks, champagne golds, and petrol blue, paying homage to the Douro River, with vintage Portuguese tiles and original art pieces from renowned artists like Pedrita Studio and Clemens Behr.

 

The hotel’s 163 stylish guest rooms and suites boast a champagne color scheme, walnut wood furnishings, chic design pieces, and floor-to-ceiling windows. Modern amenities include 55” LCD flat-screen TVs, high-quality sound systems, work desks, and USB outlets. Four suites provide spacious living areas and private balconies with stunning Atlantic Ocean views. Culinary experiences at the hotel include a Restaurant and Bar on the ground floor, offering all-day dining, and the brand’s signature Ritual to transition from day to night with local flavors and live music. The fifth-floor Sky Bar features serene, panoramic views, locally inspired cocktails, and Portuguese-style light bites. The hotel also boasts a 55-feet outdoor heated infinity pool and a state-of-the-art Fitness Centre with Technogym® equipment.

 

For events, the hotel has over 5,850 square feet of flexible space with the latest technology, including an advanced translator system. Six meeting rooms can host up to 600 guests for conferences and corporate events. The Renaissance Navigator service helps guests explore local culture and attractions, such as Lapa Church and the Liberal Porto route. Nearby, guests can enjoy boutique cafes, wineries, antique shops, and local favorites recommended by the Navigator.